1972 Chevelle - 454 - Turbo 400 - 3:73
I started this journey back in 1987 when I purchased this car. At that point it was maintenance and simple tune and go.
Over the next couple years no real changes other than letting a roommate drive the car over a 3' concrete block wall. Another frame, few new bolts, new wheels and it was ready to go again.
Then in 1992 I spun a bearing so the 402 came out and a rebuilt low compression 454 was ready to go in. This build I used TRW forged 2377F flat tops with 113cc chamber 781 heads. The block has less than 40K miles on it. I put a small 270* .515 lift summit cam in it. Ran a 2400 stall converter in my TH400 with 2.73 rear end.
In 1993 had the car back apart to repaint it. I had it at a friend of the family's shop. He was a flipper so there were some short cuts taken but it happens. I with the help of my wife chose the blue color it is in the photos. I liked the look of SS badges so I outfitted the car with them. It was a daily driver again until I needed a tiny four banger for gas mileage for work. Then it got put in the garage. No AC in South Carolina in the summer is tough as you get older.
In 2002 the company I worked for decided to change directions so I was paid to leave. I took a large chunk of the severance money and purchased a complete sound proofing to headliner interior kit. PUI seat covers and door panels. I pulled the interior out in the single car garage I had at the time to redo my seats and found rust under the back seat. I ordered a new panel from www.ss396.com. Picked up a Craftsman welder and went to town. I of course really didn't know what I was doing but its solid again. I recovered the seats. I tore the rear end apart and used an Eaton Posi unit with 3.73 gears to liven it up a little. I also stopped in a local machine shop to inquire about shaving my 781 heads to bump my compression up. He happened to have a set 702 396 heads with 98cc chambers on them. We worked out a deal he tanked them, installed brass guides, bigger valves and I cleaned up the runners and bowls on them to increase flow. He skimmed them to make sure they were clean and ready to go. With the use a steel shim head gasket I am going to bump my compression up to 9.3 and my quench area will be right at .40. Should make for some fun with a bigger cam.
Here are pictures of items I worked on in 2002 / 2003.
|New floor pan under rear seat.|
|Cleaned up original '72 Dash|
|Recovered seat versus original|
In 2004 we moved to a new home. This one is in a golfing community so my time / energy was diverted to learning the frustration that is golf. My daughter started playing sports and really took to swimming and joined the local swim team. They competed every summer. She was consistently placing in the top 10 in the city championship meets. I of course had her at the driving range and on the golf course saying your going to be a golfer. :) Now its 2014 and I realized she is going to be driving at the end of the year. I have to get back to work and get this going. In 2013 I took out the back window and saw a mess. I then cut away the panel between the window and the trunk wow! Ordered AMD replacement parts from NPD. I also found with the rear package tray to trunk if you got just the top center piece it was less than $200, if you got the entire package tray with side supports and back seat support it was $500. I am creating with the use of simple hand tools and welder new side supports. I am going to cover it all in peel n seal for sound proofing.
Now if I can ever find time away from the golf course to work on my car I can start putting the new stuff in.
This exploration was done in December 2013.
I was looking at trying to save the panel from the package tray to the trunk. There just wasn't enough metal from the bottom corners of the window channel to the center section.
So I cut it out to get after it and clean this area up.
After doing some research online. I was able to either get an entire new trunk divider package tray complete or just the center section. I opted for the just the center and will fabricate new side supports.
I also had holes in the window channel around the back window.
Here is first weld up of sheet metal to cover large rusted area.
This one shows more patching along the top and bottom corner. I still need to patch along the sides.
Test fitting new panel onto fabricated side supports.
Panel fits pretty well. I need to tweak the angles on the back of the supports other than that seems to line up pretty good.
Fun but tiring weekend.
Ok been working diligently an hour or two to get the patches around the back window done.
I still have to clean up the bottom corners but its metal all the way around the window now!
As you can see here I have started cutting out the trunk panels to replace. I have purchased from www.classicmuscle.com a two piece trunk pan. I plan to replace the outside braces as the passenger side is rough at the top near the wheel well. The drivers side looks to be in good shape. I will use filler to clean the lines up around the window. The bottom part of the channel is solid metal all around and will not have any filler. I will use POR 15 to coat the back side on the sides and bottom once I complete the trunk work.
My wife told me today that if I had put the same effort in that I have over the last two weeks this one be back on the road already. Thanks Hon! LOL
Here, I am test fitting the two sections of the trunk panel I am replacing. I am needing the two outside trunk braces. I have to massage the corners that butt up against the wheel wells.
I happen to find a really good deal on a set of real metal solid flat tappet lifters.
Now plan is to get new cam. Playing with different custom grind options.
I spent all of Sunday in the garage doing some final cleanup and welding in preparation for final install of the trunk pans.
More clean up and prep for final trunk pan install.
This shows a small area that I cut out and replaced with clean piece of metal.
Test fitting again before drilling holes for welding to support brackets
Shows the patch installed.
POR 15 on the back cross brace. I will use grey POR 15 on the entire trunk area after I have completed the welding.
This shows I was getting tired and drilled 3 holes to nowhere. Easy fix but I knew it was time to call it a night.
Good day on the 10th got the panels welded in.
Now just install the rear window panels.
Fitting the trunk divider panel.
Last weekend of the month. Got a bunch more done.
Tunk lid is on! Need to verify measurements to make sure its all square and level. I still need to get it aligned. Really excited to be at this point where it looks like a car again.
I have begun to tear the engine down to clean it up and install the new updated heads. I am figuring I should be able to get the motor started before the new year!
Here are some shots I took after I cleaned the front of the motor and sprayed paint to make sure the color on the new heads match. I have also paint the GMPP aluminum valve covers Chevy orange.
Now, I have to clean up the pulleys get them a fresh coat of black paint and get the gaskets on here to fire her up.
Drained the oil put some Marvel Mystery oil and clean oil, cleaned the lifters and oiled them up. Marked them to verify lifter spinning in bores. Checking valve to piston clearance and them will install new gaskets to fire her up. Last time she ran was 2003.
I took the rear end out of the car. Cleaned off the grease and oil painted it a fresh coat of Black Chassis paint. Put new bushing in it. Filled it with oil and reinstalled. I then suddenly can't remember if I torqued the axle bearings. *Update* I didn't had to siphon out the gear oil and posi fluid to pull the cover and torque to spec.
I have also installed a CPP rear disc break kit from Summit to replace the old drums.
I have cleaned up the underneath of the trunk pan and painted it with POR-15 also.
I have the new gas tank ready to install once I finish the rear end again.
Putting the top end on the motor to get her fired up either before or on my birthday.
OK, motor almost ready. I need to get PVC breather and finish vacuum lines. I siphoned rear end and torqued axle caps in rear end. Now I need to get gauges hooked up and fluids topped off to get it fired up.
Been busy working and haven't taken many photos. Will post new work.
Got rear seat recovered and is installed. Got the carpet in place.
My wife purchased a Vintage Air under dash A/C system for my birthday WOOT!
I have now started installing it.
Cleaned up my EBAY find 1998 Jeep GC steering box and installed it.
Picked up a new metric power steering pump and pulley and installed it.
Cleaned up modified a 1995 Astro Hydroboost and installed. Now I need to get he lines tweaked and installed.
Installed new KYB shocks on the front. Need to do rotors, pads and flexible brake lines front and rear center.
Here I am working on the back window area. I have coated the entire area with fiberglass. I will be sanding and getting some short strand filler to smooth it out.
Have installed battery and headlights, horn, AC work. I have temp and oil warning lightings working and nothing else. I have a new printed circuit to install to get more dash working.
Turns out not an issue with the old printed circuit. Had an 8 terminal light switch and needed 7. Dash lights mostly work except for some chinese junk socket holders that don't fit. I am ordering about 4 more GM ones to complete the dash lighting. I am also throwing the idea around to change the 6 to 8 center lamps to LED to try and brighten up the gauges.
I also installed a Shiftworks Tach S514-W in the space where the factory clock was in the dash.
I have test fit the window. Looks like it is going to fit without falling through into the passenger compartment. :)
Now I need to get the studs installed and get some paint on it.
I checked the oil level - good and then started adding anti-freeze and water. Ran into an issue. The freeze plugs had rusted in the time the motor sat waiting for me to get back to her again. Damn one small step forward and three big steps back.
Pulled battery, radiator alternator, water pump, power steering now need to clear the back of the engine off and unbolt the transmission to prepare to pull the motor.
I borrowed an engine hoist for a fellow motor head that lives a couple of blocks away. Picked up an engine stand from Harbor Freight. I am going to install a bigger hydraulic cam shaft while she is out. I have a Elgin E-1797 which is a .228 duration @.50 and .550 lift. I have a Holeshot 3600 I was thinking of using with the solid cam but I think it will be a little higher than I need. I think with this cam, a 3000 stall would probably be right on the mark. I might sell this one and get an replacement to better match the combo. I am going to leave the 2400 stall in with the 3:73 rear.
Want to try to finish this by New Years break.
Got a bunch of work done. I picked up brass freeze plugs locally. Took the old ones out cleaned some nasty crap out of the block and installed them. I picked up POR-15 Chevy orange paint from Summit along with a new fuel pump. I used paint stripper on the oil pan and a wire wheel on the block. I have put one coat on the pan and block. I grabbed some new main and connecting rod bearings while the motor was out and I installed them. Put in my Elgin cam and Cloyes Roller timing chain set. I purchase at the same time a new AMD battery tray, ARP waterneck fasteners '74 water outlet neck with provisions for temp sender to replace my old one that is starting to look a little sketchy.
Found a stress crack on the back of the engine crossmember where it mounts to the frame rail. I removed the passenger side suspension and used .30 flux core wire to weld both sides of the frame. I didn't take any pictures before but it was a tiny line. The only reason I saw it was I was getting ready to change the shock out and saw the split in the spring pocket. I will take a picture of the finished area.
Worked on cleaning up the frame and painted it semigloss black. Cleaned up the front brake lines ane painted them silver. Picked up some tubular A arms. I got some Proforged 1/2" long upper ball joints and Moog lower ball joints which didn't want to seat all the way in. Spent most of my Saturday screwing with them. I am going to order Proforged lower to see if I can seat them easier. May also end up with a shop press at the house as well to complete this task.
Ok after spending over a week trying to get the flat tappets to spin I changed directions. Pulled the Elgin cam and lifters out. I have a Howards Cam's hydraulic retro roller cam, lifters, and pushrods to install so I can put the motor back where she belongs.
I used a discount coupon and found a $50 gift card that I forgot about. Took it to Harbor Freight and purchased a 12 ton shop press. Finished pressing the Moog lowers completely in. The passenger side lower control arm fit like a glove. The drivers side need a little persuading to get it in the mounts. I have cleaned the spindles and brakes. Painted backing plates silver and spindles cast iron and calipers are grey. I refurbished a few wires that run to the alternator and changed out the melted fused link to starter while I had plenty of space.
Got my front suspension complete. I picked up AC Delco front rotors from Amazon for 28.00 each. Picked up new bearings and installed them. Purchased locally some new semi-metallic brake pads. Cleaned and painted my calipers. New flex hoses and banjo bolts from NAPA. Reinstalled my motor.
40 year old rotor
New rotor and pads. Need new non-dented dust cap.
Ordered new radiator fan shroud from Classic Muscle to complete the front end and will be able to finish the AC install as well. I found out I installed the flexplate backwards on the engine. I fortunately had planned to put a new transmission mount in and clean up the transmission so just a little more work. Hoping to knock this out this week / weekend. While I am under the back of the car I need to install the new rear flex hose on back of car. I will then be able to put brake fluid in car and begin to bleed brakes. While I am doing that I will put all new rubber hoses on the fuel tank.
I unbolted the transmission from motor and installed 4" long bolts on bottom of engine / transmission to give a guide to move transmission back. I used bolts and washer in case I need to draw them back together again later. Got under the car and removed the trans cooler lines by unhooking from radiator and transmission. The slid underneath the motor and then out the drivers side easy. To move the starter out of the way I unbolted the outside bolt and loosened the inside bolt. It swivels away from the flex plate and front of transmission so I will not need to take off my car. I have unhooked the rear u-joint and placed drive shaft on wheel dolly to move freely when I unbolt the transmission mount. I then removed the shift linkage and speedometer from drivers side of transmission. I then got out the purple stuff and scrub brush to clean rear of transmission up. Called it a night and back at tomorrow after I get home.
Tonight I unbolted the transmission mount. I then took a piece of 3/4 plywood and placed under the transmission's pan used a floor jack from each side of the car. One on the front of pan and one under the rear. I then jacked up the transmission off of the mount and slid it about 3 inches back. Plenty of room to remove the flex plate bolts. I removed four and then rotated the motor to get the last two. I was fortunate that the dowel pin was on opposite side of last two bolts to help control the flex plate. I then flipped and reinstalled. I then slid the transmission back to the rear of the engine. I called it a night as I didn't have the new transmission mount yet and the wife wanted me to help with dinner.
This goof up being much easier to remedy than I initially thought it was going to be.
Motor back in buttoned up timing fairly close, hose from 5 gallon gas tank to fuel pump. Check. No fire and gas leaks. So after messing with fuel lines getting the carb to stop puking fuel. Still no fire. I took out the distributor and cleaned contacts put back in. Still no spark. I then got the meter out and found out that the position sensor assembly is shot. Pulled back out disassembled and ordered new parts. I also picked up a new chineseium unit to fire off Sunday. I put new shoes on the front. I went with 225 60 15 to match my 275 50 15 drag radials out back.
My new distributor showed up after a neighbor brought it over because post office delivered to wrong house. Car fired right up. A couple of back fires and gun shot sounds in exhaust let me know something was completely right. A couple of wires in wrong place, fixed that and she runs good.
Idle is set to about 800 and timing is about 14 initial. I haven't changed anything on the distributor as I am going to use the older one after I get it rebuilt. It has rev-limiter in the module.
Milestone today! I put about 7 gallons of gas in tank. Drove the car out of the garage. I need to bleed and add more power steering fluid. The brakes need more work but that maybe due to really low power steering fluid.
Check list of needed items is shortening.
Things I still need to pick up
#1 - 3 Point retractable seat belts for the front.
#2 Outside window felts. Repops Ch183A
#3 - Alignment
#4 - Paint
Upgrade exhaust 3" head pipes and at least 2.5" tails
Items to Install
Complete wire harness to console install.
Complete dash lights and get idiots lights to work.
Rear wire harness - LED's in tail lights
Door panels and seat backs
Windlace around windows
Hybrid Logo's on front fenders
Items to remove
from front fenders.
After I change my car to a hybrid I wonder if it will fit into the parking spaces. LOL
Sems vinyl dye seat pieces
This shows how I replaced the broken stud with 1/4" threaded rod.
cut off broken piece and the flattened the base. used very small drill bit up to the correct size to drill hole to tap.
Used a recommended color on the wheels. I think I am going to pull the bright work off the wheel and paint with VHT cast iron color this one looks wrong.
Here is better video.
I have a bearing up front making noise it is either fan clutch or alternator.
Turns out the fan clutch just need some grease. I am now looking at the alternator making noise. I think the bearing is a little dry. I have ordered a replacement and will get it on Wednesday. Gives me time to repaint the top bracket again. I also need to install hose brackets for the heater and AC lines.
Back window has been glued in. Had my daughter help we did a couple of practice runs of installing the glass. Cleaned with rubbing alcohol and use 3M primer and 3M Urethane window glue. Ran into two issues for my first time installing. One was not enough gloves so now my hands are a nice urethane color. The other is that I didn't use a dam and have to clean the interior with extra glue. Doh! Will test fit trim tomorrow as it is time to get an adult soda and throw some burgers on the grill.
Cleaned up seat belts for the back seat. I am ordering retractable 3 point belts from Wesco for the front. Installed new horn relay as the original's bracket was broken.
I have also been working on cleaning the interior door shells. The passenger was poorly replaced by previous owner. I am going to have to run down a replacement in the future. I have removed all the AC misc vent parts in the cowl. I am going to clean that up and install covers. I ordered outside factory style window felts Repops CH183A and torque converter dust cover from Speedway. I ordered Teal Green Metalic paint from paintforcars.com. I am going to finish up the small amount of chip and dent work give the car a good sanding tape it and spray it. That way it will all be one color again.
Happy Easter 2017
Spent the weekend working on the interior. Need to get a couple of small items I can't locate in any boxes. Fought the glove box lock not working. It was just really tight so I sanded down the slot where the catch falls and it seemed to help. Waiting on a ground strap from headlight switch to wiper switch to ground to see if that is the issue with warning lights. Got my seat belts installed. It was frustrating because I had the bag of seat belt bolts in my hand and then I couldn't find them. I had somehow put them under the drivers seat. In these photo's I don't have the bottom seat locked or the window crank holes punched through.
Worked on grounds and lamps for the dash. I have all the back lights working but my TEMP light is intermittent and my GEN and OIL lights are coming on at all. I do need to clean and ground the rear lamp harness to complete the grounds. Then I will have to chase things down in the engine compartment. I installed the latch bar for the glove box door. Thought I was going to have to order a replacement but got lucky and found it in a box while I was looking for other pieces. I took the dash pad off the shelf and set it down on top of the dash to give it a more finished look. I have an old head unit that fits the dash I will install to fill the hole. I plan on using bluetooth to amp for modern tunes.
Fixed ground connector on rear light harness and installed front turning and running light. Now the dash lights work, the turning signals work and my temp, oil and gen lights still don't. I will check connections under the hood and make sure they are good.
Still need to put the car back up on stands and work the brake issue out. Finish small putty work on dings and sand for paint. Getting so much closer.
Spent last night with flash lights, fluke and jumper wires trying to get my Gen, Oil and Temp lights to light up at start up. I am beginning to wonder if my column wiring is different than the harness wiring. I am going to have to spend more time chasing. Friday after work I am going to put her up on stands and pull the wheels to work on getting brakes working. Going to try to get sanded and primed where needed in prep for paint.
Ok, been working and not updating. Picked up new billet brackets for the power steering pump. I then did the loaner tool for the pulley. Pulled the PS and AC compressor off the car. I completely drained and then flushed with synthetic transmission fluid the Hydroboost system. It helped somewhat but I still did not have "good brakes". I ordered a new disc / disc master for a Corvette with larger reservoirs.
I also taped off the windows and put plastic up to cover the open sides of the car. I got the DA sander out and began to scuff existing paint on the entire car to prep for paint. I plan to just get color on her to get her on the street. I will do a much more thorough paint job next time after I get some seat time.
Master cylinder came in on Monday finally got time to bench bleed and install. I HAVE BRAKES! I then started the car, moved the wife's car out of the drive way and took her for a short drive down the street and back. I have to bleed the PS pump some more as I had a small amount of whine. I can't believe she is ALIVE!
I have my 3 point belts for the front I need to install and finish up the interior along with painting. The check list of items continues to shorten.
I came across a nice add for the 1972 model year.
Played in member guest tourney Thursday - Saturday. Today was slow down and get back at it day. Had to do a slight modification the upper mount brackets for 3 point retractable belts on both sides. Used Grade 8 hardware to install. I also did a test fit on the re-tractor down by the seat. Looks like it is going to fit fine. I unfortunately am going to have to pull out the seat one more time on each side to install the inner latch belt. I am going to shoot for that this upcoming long weekend.
I haven't updated in a while. I have started to complete the interior install. I have placed windlace, rear door panels, package tray and rear seat with seat belts in. I noticed the other day my front seats are a tooth or two off on the brackets so they both are pointed out. Will have to redo them again. Uugh. I have been sanding and sanding and sanding. I have all most all the dings dents scuffs and scrapes take care of. I am still working around the sides of the rear window and where the trunk lid and quarters meet. One small spot behind the passenger rear wheel is a weird spot that I am working on. I picked up a new valance panel for under the rear bumper. My original was twisted up and dented from abuse over the years. My replacement panel from Tamraz on Ebay looked like UPS drug it all the way to my house. The funny thing is the box it was shipped in had at minimum 8" of padding all the way around. I took photo's and sanded it down and put it in primer. I will shoot the back with Rustoleum black paint.
Mechanically I have bled the brakes again and have very solid pedal feel now. I loosened the tie rod locks and moved the drivers side front wheel in from it severe toe out position. I also set the locks to not rub on sway bar, suspension bushings.
I have started putting color on the car!!! I picked up teal metallic from paintforcars.com
I have painted the bottom of hood and and trunk lid and rear valance.
I have been working on getting the rest of the car ready for paint. A little tough lately as my daughter has been playing in a lot of tournaments over the weekends. Some photos after I shot the car with primer. I reduced with the slowest reducer the local paint shop had in stock as out temps have been 94 with 80%+ humidity. Ratio was about 1:1 I just wanted a light coat to do final wetsand on. I did find about 3 issues on passenger side. One is front bottom of door and other two are around rear wheel well. I have to get the car moved across garage to check drivers side out better.
I have been using a turbine spray system and I love how easy it is versus the air compressor setup. Very little overspray no cloud of paint and easy setup and cleaning.
After taking everything out of the garage I got down to business Saturday morning.
Cut in Saturday night and rest of color all day Sunday. I needed more reducer as temps were mid 90's with a very high dew point. I was worried about tiger striping my trunk lid so I said one more coat. Wrong big mess. So paint is coming off to start it again.
No trash in paint just in clear coat as I was trying to make sure it went on wet. I had setting on gun off for most of my base coat. DUH!
pulled car out of garage.
Cece and I installed the front bumper. I didn't chase all the threads on the bolts so some stopped turning about 1/2 way tight. I am going to order new ones to do front and rear.
All of August I tried to paint trunk lid.
Tried to sand out but respray was terrible. Razor blade came out and removed all the paint. It came off in sheets too easy as it didn't really stick. Then to sanding the trunk lid down again to remove my mess up. I tried again to get color in a non tiger strip coverage. I was on the last color coat and paint dripped off the gun right down the center. I then sanded it down again for 3rd time. I then primer sanded and put 2 coats of color down when suddenly 1000's of love bugs showed up and kamikaze'd my paint. I removed them gave it a scuff to add color and had the paint to air ratio way off and paint was too think and bubbled up... huge mess. Got in a hurry trying to finish again. So I took the razor blade out for the second time and took all the paint off.
Sanded smooth primed and sanded again. I then turned the fluid ratio way down and dusted a few coats to get started. Had small little strange orange peel probably due to the fact I was holding the gun about 2 1/2 feet above the lid. I let the paint flash and sprayed a couple of thicker coats that smoothed out fairly well. I then added about a 1/3 to paint of clear in the cup. Sprayed a couple of coats with it. Then did 3 coats of straight clear. Overall looks much better than the rest of the car. I painted the car in 95*+ heat and finally the trunk lid was painted in the high 70's low 80's. The paint smoothed out much easier in lower temps with slowest reducer. I ended up with just 3 small spots that will sand out when I wet sand the clear.
Harbor Freight HVLP spray system. 89.00
Paint for Cars 150.00
Clear and reducer from Parks automotive finishes 135.00
Tape and sand paper 50.00
For the polishing I picked up from Amazon hook and loop 6" DA pad and paper. $27.00
Harbor Freight 7" polisher 35.00
Mequires diamond cut and polish 2500 - 3000 paper Pep Boys 50.00
Been wet sanding the car to flatten the orange peel and get her shinny.
Cece came out the help yesterday 9/12. We installed the rear bumper brackets and temporarily mounted rear bumper. She asked how long it would take 2 or 3 hours. LOL I told her about 35 to 50 minutes. I took that long looking for screws to hold the light brackets, let alone trying to find the bolts. I got a couple that worked and put it on for the look. I ordered from Rock Auto new bumper and bracket bolt kits. Should be here for Saturday install.
Got the bumper installed properly. Lights work lenses on. Time to clean up the alignment a little and drive around the neighborhood. Pics to be posted.
No video yet. Got a chance to drive the car this weekend. I still need to do some alignment work but took her the gas station. I haven't done that since 2002!
Working on installing weather stripping and door panels.
Cleaned the contacts after checking the wires to to voltage regulator. I don't think my regulator is working correctly. I installed the weather strip channels for the windows on the underside of roof. Installed new weatherstrip. I need to adjust windows to roll up straight.
I got the courage up to take it out for real drive. I went across town to the folks house. My father didn't know I was coming over. He was installing a transmission in my brothers minivan. I pulled up and he got a big smile on his face. We discussed my paint job and the different shades of colors between panels in sunshine. Most of that is from incomplete we sanding to 3000. Some of the clear was grayish. I was going slow around corners and I need to crawl back under to verify all bolts are tight on suspension. I was told that one if the brake lights was not working... even after replacing all the lamps with new ones. My flasher is not blinking the turning signals, again a new unit. Had a guy in a mustang pull up to tell my my passenger wheel was either bent or lug nuts loose. Double checked them at the house. They were loose. Made it back home after stopping to pick up some coffee from the store and a new regulator from the parts store. The employees had to come look at the drive through the parking lot. Great Day!
I will check the fluids, change regulator, get an alignment. I need to finish the door panel install on drivers side. I need to get a few more hog rings and some more foam for the back seat. It has set for a while now and the vinyl has loosened up some. I order some new outside door handles. Once those show up I am going to pick up either butyl stips or double stick tape to hold my water shields on the doors instead of painters tape.
I have to paint my rear marker light covers. I need to touch up a couple of areas I have messed up installing things.
I haven't finished the wet sanding and polishing of the paint. All I have done the rest of October is replace the outside door handles, put a few interior items on put weather stripping on trunk, and doors. I have tried to figure out my charging issues. I put the new regulator on. Cleaned all the contacts. Checked grounds and wire conductivity. Took the new alternator to the parts store to test and they said it was good. I have a dim gen light on and battery voltage only. My next step is to pickup a 12SI internally regulated alternator and try my luck with that. I have a small exhaust leak on #6 may need to go from aluminum header gasket to a copper one. I still need to put my upgraded HEI distributor in versus my Chinesium. I am going to have to pull apart the rear end to double check my pattern I have a slight gear whine while accelerating / holding speed, coating is quiet. My trim needs to be cleaned up and installed. I need to bleed brake system again as brake light has come back on.